Passage Making, The West Coast.

Which Side?                                                

In my view this decision is relatively straight forward, if the wind is in the west go along the Irish coast inside the off lying banks. If it is in the east then follow the Welsh and English coasts to Anglesey then head for Ireland. And if the wind is changing do a bit of both.

Note a BREXIT issue: 

"Check on UK and Irish reporting requirements into and coming from Ireland that keep changing. In 2020 & 2021 during covid-19 I sailed along the Irish coast, anchored off but did not enter a port or harbour and did not report. The rules seem to ignore the common travel area and you have to report leaving for and returning from Ireland, even if you are going via Northern Ireland. Its not a major task to do but is a pain in the neck and clearly you can't put the departure notification in the post if you do not make the decision until after leaving port. At the time of writing new rules come in on 1st Jan 2022 Link: Notice 8: sailing your pleasure craft to and from the UK - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) I think next year I will do the same again if the wind is in the west but do the same at your own risk!" Update: I called the Yachtline coming back from Ireland in 2022 having routed via N. Ireland and was told I didn't need to as I was a UK citizen, again follow that at your own risk.  

The trip around the Mull of Galloway is problematical with strong tides and, at least for a fin keeled boat, there are very limited anchorages or shelter for a long way on the south side. 

The Mull of Kintyre is another obstacle but there is good shelter at Campbeltown on the east side of the Mull and at Gigha on the west side so with careful timing and decent weather it is not a major problem and can be avoided altogether by using the Crinan Canal.

Machrihanish Bay, 2008.

Given reasonable weather my preference would always be to go along the coast of Ireland between Ardglass in the south and Larne or one of the anchorages further north and cross from there. 

South of Ardglass I would use whichever coast was most appropriate possibly including the Isle of Man. From or north of Larne with a favourable tide and wind or under engine on a calm day there are plenty of crossings that can be done in summer daylight, including to / from Loch Ryan (Stranraer), Campbeltown (see my trip Cambeltown to Browns Bay in 2021), Machrihanish Bay (fair weather only), Gigha and Port Ellen, Islay (see my trip Ardglass - Browns Bay - Port Ellen in 2020) Just watch out for the TSS and make good use of the tide.

South of Ardglass the options are varied and dependant on the wind direction, sea state and the tide around Lands End.

Rounding Lands End.

Warning 

My navigation software does not correctly compute the route timing around Lands End, probably because of the limited number of tidal diamonds plus the complexity and unpredicatbilty in some areas. Reed's and other authorities say that when heading north be at the Runnel Stone 2 hours before HW Dover; the navigation software, without the detailed information, shows the quickest time achieved (e.g. Newlyn to St Ives) leaving the Runnel Stone 2 hours later at HW Dover.

Timing and good weather are critical here as there are some seriously nasty seas in the area, especial wind against tide and where several currents meet south of the Longships. Take special care everywhere between Cape Cornwall, the Runnel Stone, Wolf Rock and the TSS. Also between the Land's End TSS and the Scillies, especially near the Seven Stones. Check out Reeds which has a good guide and the various Pilots.

South around Land's End 2021 (blue plan, red actual)

The Scilionian on route to Hugh Town, St Mary's in calm water, you can
see the edge of  overfalls caused by converging currents just this
side of her, IIRC I was east of "Carn Base" on route from the Long Ships
to Runnel Stone on a very calm day.

Under no circumstances cut inside of the Runnel Stone south cardinal buoy, a few months ago not long after the pic below was taken, a yacht tried it and had to be pulled off by the lifeboat. 

The Runnel Stone East Cardinal buoy. The Long Ships just to the right of it,
Gwennap Head extreme right. Expand the picture and note the line of a
different tidal flow not far the other side of the buoy extending out of
picture in both directions. This is the same line showing in the picture
of the Scillionian above taken on a previous rounding in the other direction.

South Bound past Land's End.

Coming south timing this passage is difficult and it may be necessary to slow down or use the engine to get through at a sensible time, in fair conditions a night at St Ives or further north east might be a good idea coming from Wales or even a stop off in the Isles of Scilly although that too has its own timing issues (see my passage from Milford to St Marys in 2022). 

In a reasonably quick boat with decent weather and reasonable wind Milford Haven direct to Newlyn or around the Lizard is doable single handed in a single hop and without sleep, those with smaller boats might want to head further east and come down the north coast tide chasing. In 2021 I left at 05:15 and got to Newlyn at 07:15 the next morning but had a very rough time of it between Cape Cornwall and the Longships due to wind against tide, I was earlier than planned but with only 5 knots of wind pressed on under engine, unfortunately the wind piped up to 15 knots and against 2.5 - 3 knots of tide it got rather nasty until the tide turned.

My 2024 crossing from Milford to just past the Lizard was much easier. 

North Bound round Land's End.

North bound the timing is easier and the tide favourable for longer, over 9 hours, with time at the Runnel Stone the key. Starting from Penzance Bay will make timing easier. If stopping off at St Ives (suitable weather only) that leg can be done in summer daylight from the Fal or Helford if the conditions are right as I did in 2020.

Especially if starting the trip from west of Portland (if east of Portland see my Passage Making - The Solent to Land's End regarding passing Portland) then, if practical, it makes sense to try and arrive at Penzance / Newlyn to leave there at an optimal time. In my view a start at 07:00 or a bit earlier is best to get a good nights sleep before leaving, that will also allow a trip round to St Ives in daylight during much of the year or to Milford perhaps arriving in the early hours for a few hours sleep after a quick passage or hopefully before lunch the next day.

It is about 9 miles from Newlyn to the Runnel Stone against the tide, say 2 hours under engine, so leaving at 07:00, give or take, you need HW Dover to be at about 11:00 which will be about 3 days before a spring tide. Most conveniently that, given reasonable weather so you don't linger too long at Milford, will also give fair tides to continue north, see below.

St Ives - Carnsore Pt, 2020. Going
west of the line in anticipation of
the wind veering NW, which it did.

Crossing to or from Ireland

Northbound from Lands End / Cape Cornwall or St Ives there are a number of options (all work in reverse):

• To Milford Haven then across to Ireland with a landfall off Carnsore Point or further north, it takes longer but avoids the longer leg going direct. Particular care must be taken getting between the offshore banks between Carnsore and Dublin, southbound in 2021 I went south of the Arklow & Glassgorman Banks (my usual choice) in brisk conditions broad reaching under reefed headsail alone and I was very glad I was not going in the other direction! With easterly winds going up the Welsh coast is likely to be preferable although tides between Milford and north of the Bishops and Clerks can be problematical.
• Along the Cornish and Devonshire coast before heading for Wales, perhaps stopping overnight at Lundy. This route demands due attention to the tides all the way!
• Direct to Ireland (avoiding the TSS's), again heading for Carnsore Point as I did in a shifting wind from St Ives in 2020. Landfalls from Kinsale to Dunmore East are a little shorter but then requires another day or two to get to Carnsore Point.

Going via the Isles of Scilly the leg to Ireland is around 130 miles making landfall from Kinsale to Dunmore East, a tad more to Carnsore or 145 miles to Baltimore followed by several extra days sailing north. See my thread Celtic Sea Circuit (full trip from the Solent) or from Day 8 Newlyn to Baltimore.

Having done most of these routes, in one direction or both, heading north I now make the final decision on which route when passing the Runnel Stone or the Long Ships after getting the latest weather forecast (06:30 met office and the morning download of multiple models from Predictwind). Coming south I decide at Dublin or some point south of there. Wind speed and direction would obviously be the main factor in deciding to leave in the first place but, especially heading north and with overall time not being a big issue, wind and tides are the decider on the best route and given good weather in some tides I would go via Scilly and accept additional days at sea.

North from Milford via Ireland.

Warning

There are no tidal diamonds from St Anne's Head at the entrance to Milford until you are well out into St Georges Channel (or well clear of Ramsey Sound heading to Fishguard), so most navigation systems will not calculate the passage time correctly until past The Smalls. 

Also with a start at or a bit before HW Milford the south going tide is likely to take you very close to, or into, the TSS Off Smalls, a GPS waypoint on the NE corner is recommended, the Off Tuskar TSS is normally less of a problem. There are also few diamonds along the Irish coast but tides are generally more consistent so it is less of an issue and apart from the slack area off of Dundalk Bay the tidal atlas gives a good indication of strength without the actual numbers.

Milford to St Margret's Bay, Carnsore Pt. 2023. Note the tide

setting me into the TSS, a quick blast with the engine was

required as there was shipping going both ways in dense fog.

My track in 2024 to Arklow. 85 NM in 15 hours
with the help (and hindrance) of a spring tide.

As mentioned above, a start on a spring tide is convenient when heading to Ireland from Milford and for much of the year, should enable a daylight arrival at Carnsore (to anchor in St Margret's Bay or Ballytrent Bay) and north going tides from there at a sensible time in the morning, e.g. leave Milford on a Spring tide and the next day the tide turns to the North at about 07:00Z off Rosslare. 

An alternative strategy, if a longer passage is acceptable, perhaps as I did in 2024 when it had to be done under engine and therefore at speed, is to be off St Anne's head as the tide turns west, pass as close to Skokolm as is sensible in the conditions then head to pass South Bishop by 2 - 4 miles, on a spring tide there will be a good 4 knots of favourable tide on this stretch to help you on your way. Roney Point, Arklow, Wiklow, Sorento / Dublin Bay or Howth that are all doable without sleep but care will be needed getting through the offshore banks,  north or south of Arklow Bank or north of India Bank, preferably with a favourable tide

Until about 10 miles north of the Skerries (or 28 NM N of Dublin) the flood tide runs north. The Skerries are about 85 NM from Carnsore and Dundalk Bay c 105 NM and both are convenient jumping off points for Ardglass the best place to re-provision if required and to time the passage through Donaghadee Sound into or beyond Belfast Lough which is done on the ebb tide as there can be 4.5 knots or more of tide there. It is a long way round the outside, especially against the tide.

The admiralty chart notes that "Only power-driven vessels with local
knowledge and a speed of at least 10 knots should use the sound
against the stream". Note also that the tide can switch very quickly,
I have sneaked through north bound with the last of the favourable
tide at Foreland Point and then had 2 knots against off Carn Point.

Anchorages and Marinas I have used.

Tides along the coast generally run at 1 - 3 knots and rather more in places, so working them in either direction makes a big difference. 

If you take it easy and the weather is kind from Carnsore you can make The Skerries or Dundalk Bay in two or three days and Ardglass in three to five days, add a night or two in port there for fuel, supplies, showers, laundry and a Chinese meal (recommended) you will leave about six days after leaving Carnsore and the spring tide and the north going ebb tide will be starting at around 08:00Z. All very convenient, if the weather is kind.

On this schedule with 30 miles to go, leaving at about 05:00Z you will need to make about 4 knots through the water to catch the last of the favourable tide through Donaghadee Sound and you should be at anchor off Bangor (Ballyholme Bay) or be in the marina by about 14:00Z. Alternatively you can take on the tide for another 12 NM to Browns Bay.

The trip can be shortened by heading from Milford direct to Arklow (not my favourite anchorage) or to Sorento Bay (Dublin) but even with a good wind or under engine and getting the advantage of a very strong tide off of the Bishops and Clerks (at the N end of  St Brides Bay) this makes for a very long day.

For my notes on anchorages and marinas for this route see my page The East Coast of Ireland from Carnsore Pt to Red Bay. North Bound I have routed to the Inner Hebrides as follows:

2020: St Mawes (Falmouth) to St Ives, Carnsore, Sorento Bay (Dublin), Dundalk Bay, Ardglass, Browns Bay, Port Ellen (Islay).

2022: Newlyn to Milford, Carnsore, Wicklow Bay, The Skerries, Bangor (Ardglass being closed), Browns Bay, Port Ellen.

2023: Newlyn to Milford, Carnsore, Wicklow Bay, Howth (sheltering from an easterly gale), Ballyholme Bay (Bangor), Browns Bay, Port Ellen via Red Bay.

2024: Newlyn to Milford, Arklow, The Skerries, Ardglass, Browns Bay, Craro Bay (Gigha).

North from Milford via the coast of Wales.

Going direct to Bardsey / Aberdaron Bay, Pwllheli or further north is possible but a long way with strong tides to contend with, especially off of the Bishops, with a brisk but not strong easterly with a forecast change, an overnight trip to Dublin or Howth might be preferable.

Fishguard is easier but to carry tides it will require carefully timing and if there is an east wind there will be a engine work for the last 15 miles to carry the tide. You would not go that route in a Northerly of any strength as Fishguard is unprotected from North & North Eastly winds, also a strong, even brisk, wind against tide off Bishops would likely be seriously uncomfortable. 

The simplest route is outside of Skomer and The Bishops and Clerks but it is quite a long way and strong adverse tides are an issue, the inside route via Jack Sound and Ramsey Sound means going through the latter at the hight of the tide which runs at 6 knots at springs but is relatively straight forward, Jack sound runs at 5 - 7 knots with overfalls and needs to be done at the start (or end) of the flood.  At springs that is 4:25 before HW Milford and at Neaps 3:00 before, so it will likely be an afternoon start and an evening arrival, quite late on a Spring tide but the entrance to Fishguard is straightforward and lit. Neither Sound is lit and as you will frequently be only 100 yards from danger, daylight and reasonable weather are required.

Southbound.

Sorrento Bay Dublin to Milford, 2021. AIS tracking was lost
mid channel, the track was definitely not that straight!

Sorrento Bay to Aberdaron Bay, 2022.

I have not been able to choose my tides coming south but have generally had favourable winds and once had to do it in a hurry, I have routed:

2021: Gigha to Eilean Dubh, Crinan Canal, Ardmarnock Bay, Portavadie, Campbeltown, Browns Bay, Bangor, Ardglass, Dundalk Bay, Sorrento Bay, Milford, Newlyn. 

2022: Craro Bay (Gigha) to Bangor, Dundalk Bay, Sorrento Bay,  Aberdaron Bay (Wales), Milford, Newlyn via St Ives.

2023: Port Ellen to Browns Bay, Ardglass, The Skerries, Sorrento Bay, Aberdaron Bay, Fishguard, Milford (via Ramsey Sound but outside Skoma), Portquin Bay (Padstow), Carbis Bay (St Ives), Newlyn.

2024: Gigha to Browns Bay, Ballyholme Bay, Ardglass, The Skerries, Milford (direct due to a family emergency).

In 2022 as part of a circuit of the Celtic Sea, I routed from Dunmore East (south of Carnsore) to Milford,  Hugh Town, (St Marys, Isles of Scilly) then direct to the Truro River to shelter from a storm.